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Looking
for a Safari in Zambia?
- Sioma Falls
and Sioma Ngwezi National Park in Western Province is worth a visit.
Are you considering a different kind of
safari-trip to Africa? If that is the case then Zambia may actually present
itself as an attractive alternative compared to the more congested places in say
Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. In Zambia it is still possible to find vast
areas with almost ‘untouched wild nature’ where tourist numbers are low. This is
also one of the reasons why Zambia under the motto ‘The Real Africa’ is becoming
ever more succesful in marketing itself as a destination for the tourist who
would like to experience the African nature and its wildlife without having to
compete with thousands of other tourists. After all true wilderness experience
is better achieved in smaller groups.
Those experiences have filled me with
enthusiasm since I came to Zambia in 2003 to work at the Danish Embassy in
Lusaka. Major parts of my holidays have been spent in the ‘bush’ and after
experiencing the effects of mass tourism in countries such as Kenya and to some
extent in Tanzania and Namibia it was a great relief for me to get the
opportunity to see and experience nature, landscapes and wildlife without having
to stand on the feet of other tourists.
Based on my ‘bush-experiences’ in Zambia
and a growing desire to spend all my time in the bush I have decided to say
goodbye to my old job and invest all my savings in a new and very different kind
of life.
In my spare time I have since mid 2006 been planning to set up a safari
camp (lodge) in southwestern Zambia approximately 320 kilometres west of
Livingstone/Victoria Falls.
ctually there will be two camps, a river camp on
the banks of the Zambezi River about 10 kilometres south of the Sioma Falls (or
Ngonye Falls) and in due time a bush camp outside the northwestern corner of the
Sioma Ngwezi National Park. Sioma Ngwezi is one of Zambias 19 national parks.
Although it is the third largest national park in Zambia and covers and area of
approximately 5000 km2 it is in many ways only about to be
‘explored’. There is but one single road (track) encircling the park. A track
across the park has not been in use for several years because of fallen trees
(probably caused by elephants). Towards the southwest the Kwando River marks the
park’s – and Zambias - border with Angola. Apart from being literally a floating
border the Kwando River is a huge wetland area with many animals living there.
Further towards the south the Kwando River joins the Okavango River that flows
into the desert and forms the Okavango Delta. Towards southeast the Sioma Ngwezi
National Park borders the Namibian Caprivi Strip between Zambia and Botswana.
The natural hub for tourism activities in the region is Livingstone with
Victoria Falls being one of the seven natural wonders of the world. On offer
here are a number of action oriented activities such as wild water rafting,
bungee jump, trips on the backs of elephants, helicopter- and microlight flights
and much more. Apart from Victoria Falls there are several unique national parks
in the area of which the best known are Moremi – including the Okavango Delta –
and Chobe in Botswana as well as Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.
The first step in recent efforts to put
Sioma Ngwezi back on the map came when the five countries Zambia, Angola,
Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe in December 2006 signed a Memorandum of
Understanding regarding the establishment of one huge connected protected area
covering a number of national parks and game management areas in the northern
part of southern Africa. The plan bears the name ‘The Kavango Zambezi Trans
Frontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA)’. The KAZA TFCA covers a total area of
280.000 km2. The idea behind the setting up of KAZA TFCA is to
establish one huge conservation area with corridors connecting the national
parks and game reserves with each other in order to allow game to move more
freely. First of all this may facilitate the movements of elephants. This may
help to alleviate the problem that there are too many elephants in Hwange in
Zimbabwe and in Chobe in Botswana, whereas there is still plenty of space for
more elephants in say Sioma Ngwezi and Kafue National Parks in Zambia. However
it is one thing to establish the corridors – and even that may pose some
difficulties because of physical obstacles such as human settlements/towns,
agricultural areas/farms, roads, fences etc. – quite another to make the
elephants use them. At the moment the movement of elephants are being surveyed
through the use of satellites. The KAZA TFCA initiative is also guided by the
overall idea that a greater share of the revenues and other benefits stemming
from nature based tourism should be directed towards local communities.
In July 2006 when I visited the
southeastern corner of Sioma Ngwezi close to Imusho where Zambia borders Angola
and Namibia I came across a ‘self made’ elephant corridor. The elephants were
coming from Angola crossing the Kwando River and continuing into Zambia creating
a band stretching for about one kilometer with many elephant foot paths clearly
indicating increased cross border migration of elephants between the two
countries. According to local villagers it was a fairly new phenomenon. There
had been very few elephants for more than twenty years but now apparently they
are returning in greater numbers. At that time I saw no elephants, but on my
second visit to the area in October 2006 I encountered about fifty elephants in
the outskirts of the northwestern corner of the park (close to the place where I
plan to establish my bush camp).
According to local wildlife police
officers from Zambia Wildlife Authority (ZAWA) patrolling the area almost all
animal species normally asscociated with Africa live in the park – up to now
however in limited numbers. With the establishment of KAZA TFCA and increased
investments in the area in – among other things – anti poaching activities
hopefully to be combined with development efforts directed at the local
communities it is hoped that game populations will again grow. According to the
wildlife police officers the list of predators comprises both lion, leopard,
cheetah, hyena, jackal and wild dog. The herbivores comprise elephant, giraffe,
(a special Angolan sub-species), eland, roan, sable, kudu, tsessebe, impala,
kudu, buffalo, duiker, zebra, warthog and many others. In the Zambezi and Kwando
Rivers there are hippos and crocodiles. On the many islands of the Kwando River
you may see the shy waterloving sitatunga antelope. Birdlife is impressive. Most
of Zambia consists of Miombo woodland, but here in Zambias southwestern corner
the landscape is dominated by kalahari woodland with teak and acacia trees and a
high biological diversity provides suitable habitats for many different animal
species.
The construction of Sioma (River) Camp
will start in September 2007 and hopefully we will be open for the first
‘pilot-guests’ around Easter 2008 although the camp may not be fully operational
before mid 2008. Initially we will focus our tourism activities on the
opportunities offered by the Zambezi River. First of all these will include
trips to the nearby Sioma – or Ngonye – Falls. Although smaller than Victoria
Falls the Sioma Falls are a great experience, also because they may be
experienced at close quarters. When David Livingstone travelled down the Zambezi
River in 1853 he described the scenery presented by the waterfalls as ‘the
loveliest I had seen’ (this was before he two years later for the first time saw
the Victoria Falls). The drop of the Sioma Falls are not that impressive, not
more than 10 meters, but extend for about one kilometer and it is possible to
experience the falls from many angles. In order to get the best upfront view you
will have to go by boat. You may use one of the local canoes. They are more
stable than they look, but if you prefer a ‘real’ boat that can be arranged as
well.
We expect that Sioma River Camp will be
able to offer a wide range of activities. Sunset cruises enjoying a cool drink
while watching the beautiful sunsets over the Zambezi River are a pleasant way
of spending time. Lunchtrips to the falls or some of the many sandbanks or
islands in the river present relaxing options that also provide opportunities to
watch the rich birdlife along the river. Of course a popular activity is fishing
for tiger fish (on a catch and release basis) – one of the most exiting and
ferociously fighting freshwater fish of the world. Tiger fish has impressive
jaws with razor sharp teeth. It is also possible to catch other fish species,
including very tasty catfish and tilapia (bream).
Of course we will be able to arrange
trips into the Sioma Ngwezi National Park as well as trips all the way around
the park including along the Kwando River. Sioma River Camp will also undertake
trips lasting several days to Liuwa National Park further towards the northwest.
A major attraction here is the huge wildebeest migration during October to
December – second only to the one in Serengeti - Masai Mara.
Sioma River Camp is situated in Zambia's
western province. The people living in the province are known as Lozis, an etnic
group that has lived in the area since 1600 where the Lozis established a strong
kingdom that exists even today. Towards the end of March or beginning of April
the Lozis are having the Kuomboka ceremony close to the provincial capital of
Mongu (about 600 kilometres west of Lusaka). When the water level in the Zambezi
River rises and floods the plains the Lozi king – the Litunga – will leave his
wet summer residence and move towards higher lying and more dry grounds in the
east. The transfer takes place in a huge canoe powered by almost one hundred
men. The ceremony has gradually become a major tourist attraction and is a very
spectacular event. It is difficult however to predict exactly when the Kuomboka
will take place. The exact time depends on the actual rise of the water level
and when it is full moon.
As mentioned we expect Sioma River Camp
to be ready to receive the first guests around Easter 2008. Keep an eye on our
website on the address www.siomacamp.com. Here you will find practical
information, including (tentative) list of planned activities. The camp is so
far in the planning stage only, however the website will be regulary updated and
expanded during the time of construction starting in September 2007.
H.C. Aaskov, August 2007
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