An update
on the latest developments in this remote part of the world,
especially those concerning Sioma Camp of course.
Since
December I have had very few guests. Up to now it has been rainy
season and the condition of the road does not encourage people
to go up here. And the road has been very bad. Several times I
have seen workers slashing the grass along the road side. It
just makes me wonder…..As far as I can see the problem is not
the grass but the road. Years of no maintenance has made the
road almost impassable especially in the rainy season. There are
several sections from here to Sesheke where you start doubting
whether or not you will get through. Especially after a heavy
shower some of the stretches are no fun at all. Recently to my
surprise an ordinary mini van – without four wheel drive – made
it all the way up here. They were five people and with a lot of
pushing and digging it took them 16 hours; normally the trip can
be done in 3-4 hours. The fuel consumption had been enormous
though and they had to borrow 5 liter of diesel so they could
get to Sioma.
There seem
to be some confusion as to the status of the planned
rehabilitation of the Sesheke-Senanga (Mongu) road. Will there
be a tarmac road or only an all weather gravel road (which could
be ok if sufficient funds for maintenance are set aside and
earmarked for this specific road for an indefinite number of
years)? Will there be a bridge here at Sioma (at the powerlines
5 kilometers from my camp) or up at Nangweshi or none at all
(with the road going from the pontoon at Sitoti (Kalongola) all
the way to Sesheke on this – Southern – side of the Zambezi
River)? Or will there ever be a proper road at all? I hope
rumors that the funds are being diverted to road building in
Luapula province are just rumors. Not that I have anything
against road building in Luapula, but come on, Western Province
must have first priority, right. Anyway, the road is essential
for any development effort involving at least a gradual
‘modernization’ of the area, including the very traditional
mindset of the local people. I hope I do not sound too cynical.
Anyway, without an improved all weather road – tarmac or gravel
- nothing will change for the better out here.
The Peace
Park facilitated development of the Kavango Zambezi
Transfrontier Conservation Area is slowly getting into gear with
respect to the Zambian component. Apparently the initial
discussions have been finalized and behind the scenes
disagreements – if any ? – have been settled. The Ngonye Falls
National Park has been established. There is a fence and a gate
(on the main road) and soon the park will be stocked with some
game. It is a fairly small park, only 1767 hectares (11
squarekilometers). The main attraction is the Ngonye
Falls. In order to see the Falls tourists are now charged US$ 5
per person.
Also with
regard to the Sioma Ngwezi National Park things are moving
ahead. Sioma Camp hosted a group of people from Peace Park,
Zambian Wildlife Authority (ZAWA), the Barotse Royal
Establishment (BRE) and some hopeful investors. Several
concession areas were visited in Ngonye Falls NP and in Sioma
Ngwezi NP (where there are six concession areas). The tender
process will take place over the next few months. By mid year
the lucky investors may be able to start construction processes
on the ground.
Restocking
is part of the plans for the Sioma Ngwezi NP as well. More
efficient law enforcement
structures have to be in place first though and that may take
some time. Commercial poaching and subsistence hunting is still
rampant in and around the park. Let’s hope that the Peace Park
process will lead to improvements with regard to patrolling –
involving hopefully a substantial number of local people as
village scouts (including former poachers I hope) – and
improvements in the livelihood of local communities. Both
elements – strengthened law enforcement and strengthened
community involvement - are needed if illegal hunting is going
to be reduced which again is needed if wildlife based tourism is
going to thrive in this area and assist in reducing the level of
poverty.
Over the
last few months there have been several reports of lions
attacking livestock in the
villages
between the Zambezi River and the park. One or several prides of
5-8 lions have been roaming the area. Recently there have also
been many reports of elephants eating and thereby destroying
(the elephants are not exactly tiptoeing around) maize fields.
With regard to the lions I wonder if the problem is that the
number of game is too small for lions to survive. A pride of
lions need more than a few duikers and oribis to be fed. Cattle
is easy to hunt and kill and they got plenty of meat on them
which is probably why they are becoming a preferred prey….if
that is indeed the case. It is my impression that nobody really
knows much about the lions around here. As for the
elephants…..well I guess they just like maize. At this time of
the year there is plenty of biomass everywhere (and too few
herbivores around to eat it) so lack of food resources is not
the problem.
I have had
fairly few game sightings at all over the last few months. The
grass is too tall and you can hardly see anything. Some
giraffes, a few roans, duikers and kudus that’s all.
In camp we
had an evening visitor – a black spitting cobra – in Mike’s tent
(Mike is the chef). Mike had just laid down to rest when he
heard the hissing from a snake next to his bed. He rolled over
and tumbled out of bed and managed to get away unharmed. Mubita
– my driver – then came and killed the snake with a long club. I
am not generally in favor of killing snakes be they poisonous or
not poisonous. They are impressive and elegant creatures (and
useful in keeping numbers of annoying rodents down), although
they may of course not be among your preferred bed mates in
which case killing them will be necessary. A few weeks later I
had a black mamba in my open ‘office’. I could see it quite
clearly from less than two meters distance before it
disappeared. It was not at all aggressive just very observing
and attentive…and I kept my distance. Next day I saw another but
smaller black mamba fifty meter from my tent. In a few occasions
I have seen other black spitting cobras on my plot. The most
common snake around here seems to be the striped bellied sand
snake,
harmless
– as most snakes are - and extremely fast.
At the
moment we are experiencing a serious flood. According to some
people it is the worst flooding of the Zambezi River in fifteen
years or longer; some say forty years. My four tented chalets
are under water as is the deck at the main camp center (see
photos). Quite frustrating. The rise of the water went
surprisingly quick. Within a week the water level rose
from
almost normal level to alarming heights. Now, beginning of
April, the water level
is slowly receding, but still high. Fascinating to see otters
close to my bar; even crocodiles seem to get closer. And of
course a lot of fish all over feeding on drowning insects and
other small animals. Big breams are cruising the restaurant deck
at the main camp center. If it had not been for my chalets and
the ongoing construction I would just have enjoyed the scenery.
Zambezi when it is most impressive. The amount of water flowing
by every second….it is just unbelievable. (see photos). And
where does all the water come from? The rainy season around here
has not been so heavy so it must all come from DRC, Angola and
perhaps the North Western Province in Zambia.
Daniel –
an American missioner living a few kilometers downstream – took
me for a ride in his boat to the Ngonye Falls. Sorry to say, but
the Falls have vanished. Well of course they are still there,
but completely under water. The only sign of the Falls are some
serious rapids on the top (see photo). We tried to pass over the
Falls and nearly succeeded, but because we had hit a rock
moments just before (as we tried to pass via a left channel)
something inside the propeller had broken and suddenly we found
ourselves without engine power on the top of the Falls and then
floating helplessly down the river. Luckily Daniel had brought a
spare propeller and when we drifted into some quiet water he
managed to replace the one that got damaged. Lesson learned:
Always bring a spare propeller! A few minutes later we passed
some very turbulent whirlpools and I wondered what would have
happened if we had ended up in one of those without engine
power. Daniels boat seems quite stable and seaworthy, but……..
Apart from
all the problems caused by the flooding not just to me but to a
lot of people in Western Province the huge river also provides
the most incredible scenery. The Zambezi is truly a remarkable
and impressive river. Always changing…a personality of its own.…
this time a bit too much perhaps… but always fascinating to
watch and experience.
Easter is
coming up and the Kuomboka ceremony as well. Unfortunately I
will not be able to attend the Kuomboka (planned for the 11th
of April). I only have one boat and if I should take guests up
there I would need a support vehicle to bring supplies and
equipment. With the road closed from Nangweshi to Senanga the
vehicle should be driving all the way via Lusaka and that is
simply not feasible. Again, I hope the Senanga – Sesheke road
will soon be constructed so Western Province will no longer be
divided in two parts. As for now the only option if you want to
go from here to Senanga/Mongu is to take the boat from Nangweshi.
For the time being driving is not an option unless perhaps you
got an amphibious vehicle.
And then
maybe it is possible anyway. I have just been informed that
although driving from Sitoti (Kalongola) to Senanga is rarely
possible before some time in June/July when the floodplain dries
up you may be able to hire the pontoon - at Sitoti or Senanga -
in order to transport you and your vehicle to/from Senanga/Sitoti
thereby avoiding the road crossing the floodplain. I am not one
hundred percent sure about the fee, but I have heard amounts
mentioned ranging from 150.000 Kwacha to 300.000 Kwacha per
vehicle (30 US$ to 50 US$). The 100 km stretch from Senanga to
Mongu is a (new) tarmac road and poses no problem.
And the
rains seem to be over. It has not been raining seriously for
more than two weeks now – beginning of April – and although we
may still have a few showers (Right now I can hear thunder in
the distance) it will not change the big picture.
By the
way, check out the magazine ‘Travel Zambia’. An article about
Sioma Ngwezi National Park and the surrounding area may be
coming up soon. The journalist who stayed here for a few days in
November has also planned a more comprehensive article in Africa
Geographic some time later this year.
See you.
Hans
Christian Aaskov
Sioma Camp
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